New York Story – Part II
Saturday - Evening & Late Evening
South Street Seaport was our dinner stop. We hopped back on one of the double-decker red buses, AGAIN having to sit inside because the top was filled before we could get on. Linda and I moved to the extreme rear of the bus where we were able to secure four seats together. We sat down, both us giving the old lady groan as we took a load off. Mom and Laurie plunked down next to us, followed by two very chummy women who were not holding hands, but looked like they might have been just moments before.
My naïve Mom says “are you two sisters?”
“No, we’re not, ” said one woman (let’s just call her Butch.)
“Really? You look so much alike!” gushed my mother, digging deeper into her hole.
“We get that a lot. Maybe because we have the same haircut,” smirked Butch
“Maybe, but I think it’s more than that…”
Linda and I were giggling uncontrollably and had to turn away because it was painful to watch anymore as Mom continued on and on with her questions. Luckily we only had to go one stop ‘til our dinner.
The tour guide on the bus was loath to let us leave. She kept asking everyone if they had any interest in stopping at the South Street exit and we kept yelling YES, but she didn’t acknowledge us, forcing me to hit the “STOP DRIVER” button. It was very effective, too; the bus halted almost too soon, and the tour guide kept asking the driver why he was stopping. We barreled down the aisle before she could make him take off again, trapping us on the bus.
We followed our leader (of course) through a little mall on the waterfront. She took us up escalators to the 3rd level, and we followed wearily on her heels. She finally led us to a wonderful restaurant called Sequoias. We have one of those in Washington, DC, too, but I had never been before. (In case you are wondering, it’s definitely worth the trip.) We all started with soups/salads. I had Manhattan Clam Chowder (when in Manhattan, you know…) Linda had Shrimp Bisque, Laurie had a Caesar salad and Mom had New England Clam Chowder. Food choices were difficult. I picked out about 5 things and had to do eeny-meeny to pick one. I finally decided on a sushi quality seared tuna steak with penne pasta, tomatoes, olives and bread crumbs; I could have licked the plate. Mom had one of the dishes I didn’t order: Pineapple shrimp skewers on a bed of rice. I don’t remember what Linda and Laurie had but they cleared their plates, too, so I know they liked what was delivered.
Between the food and the view, it was a perfect place to spend a few hours, which we did, watching harbor traffic pass us by. We saw a ferry emblazoned with “The Music Tour” (probably not as jolly as the name implied, though because not a very fun looking bunch on that one) saw a very large and very luxurious catamaran cruising with a privileged few lounging on the decks, water taxis zipping across back and forth while dodging fishermen in motorboats, (what they hoped to catch, besides Typhoid and other contagious diseases, was questionable) and even an intrepid Waverunner. Night was descending and finally we figured we should be heading along on our day of fun because we had hardly seen anything, and we certainly didn’t have room for desert, so what was the point of sitting there watching the dusk turn to twilight?
We got up, groaning and moved off to our next stop: Ground Zero. As we were leaving the area I noticed a newsstand that seemed to be selling lots of film. I decided to get a disposable camera so I could take some pictures at Ground Zero. As I went in, I noticed a wall full of batteries. Just for the heck of it, I pulled out my camera and asked the guy behind the counter to see if he had one. Amazingly enough, he did! I whipped out my wallet and paid the highway robbery price he was asking ($9.75) and danced gleefully out of the shop, waving my trophy triumphantly. Now they wouldn’t have to listen to me whine about no battery. J
The walk to Ground Zero was short, but very memorable. Lights lit up the sky like daylight and the ominous emptiness of that large area stood out noticeably, in a city where space is at a premium, and skyscrapers blocking out the sky are the norm. We followed the lights to the site, becoming somber as we got closer and the magnitude of the disaster became more apparent.
The site is much different than it was after September 11th, thankfully. The rubble is gone and now it looks like a massive construction site. It was hard to believe that the exposed slurry wall could hold back the river. The subway system hub that was under the Twin Towers site has already begun its rebirth. We walked around the site, peering through the chain link fence at the space below and reading the signs that are hung everywhere, celebrating the history of the area and remembering those who were lost. It was very tasteful and touching; the one discordant note were the vendors hawking their September 11th memorabilia and aggressively pursuing those who were there to mourn and remember.
We finally left Ground Zero, walking several blocks back to Broadway and the bus stop where we were supposed to be able to pick up our next hop-on, hop-off bus. As we approached Broadway, Linda happens to mention that she hadn’t seen one of the buses recently. With a funny feeling in my stomach, I opened my handy-dandy brochure/map and flipped to the section that talked about the tour we purchased. There in bold black print was the horrible truth: 8:00am – 5:00pm. We glanced at our watches in horror, noting the 7:50pm that it was. We were downtown, really far downtown, and our bus trip was over, had been over for hours. However, the evening tour, called the Night Loop, was now running from 5:30pm-8:30pm, but it didn’t offer hop-on/hop-off service, so we’d have to get on where it started. If we hurried, we could still make it, if we could get there in time. Taxi anyone?
Laurie showed she was up to the challenge by stepping to the curb; she raised her left arm in the universal hail and waited for results, which were not long in coming. With screeching tires and honking of many horns keeping time, a cab veered from the far right lane to the far left, cutting off the hordes of cars, buses and taxis that filled the road. Laurie prudently stepped back from the curb, look of chagrin on her face as she realized her powers were stronger than she’d expected. Linda stood still frozen on the curb, so Mom grabbed her and pulled her back, just in case one of the crazed drivers swerved onto the sidewalk.
The four of us tumbled into the cab almost before he had stopped, hoping to minimize the damage caused by the stop short maneuver this driver had just pulled. I started to get in the back, but my Mom grabbed my arm and pushed me out of the way, saying “I’m not sitting up front!” and then she jumped in the back, leaving me no choice by to take the death seat in the front. Park Tran, our driver asked where we were going. “To hell and back” would probably describe that ride. We went from Manhattan to Times Square and it was a harrowing trip. Lets just say that I think the ladies in the back seat left claw marks permanently embedded in the seats. Heh-heh-heh!
He got us to our destination, the Grayline bus visitor’s center, at 8:17, which was a minor miracle but it was closed up tight. We started to walk back towards Times Square, feeling very sorry for ourselves, walking with dragging feet, until suddenly, we happened to see one of the red-jacketed drivers of the Grayline tours and it looked like he was trying to sell passersby on the tour. We politely asked him where we could board the Night Loops tour and he pointed up a few feet up the street and we went hot-footing it that way. We made it!
Linda and I were adamant that we wanted to ride up top. That was all we wanted, a ride on top. There may have been a comment tossed out there along the lines of “every woman wants to ride on top…” ;p
We got our wish! It seems that every Night Loop tour is done with all of the passengers riding up top. If you ever get to New York City and you are limited in your money and not sure how best to spend it, let me recommend this to you --- the Night Loop tour was the best thing we did, even better than Ellis Island, because it was such a good, happy time, with tons of information, astounding sites, all the while you’re sitting on top of the world for two hours. Our tour guide got on and he looked just like Rudy Guiliani, and sounded like him too! What more could you ask for, a tour by one of the city’s most famous resident?
Rudy (who’s real name was Andrew) was knowledgeable, witty and had the typical New Yorker’s ability to zap you with a sassy comeback, as he demonstrated several times during our trip. One notable example: The bus stopped briefly next to a famous park that was, at the moment, filled with badly-dressed, drunk college boys. The boys evidently didn’t like having a busload full of gawking tourists looking at them while they were getting a drunk on, so they began yelling obscenities. At first Rudy continued to talk over them, but after one particularly loud boy yelled “SUCK MY DICK” he fired back with “That’s YOUR fantasy, not mine.” The entire bus exploded with laughter. I believe those of us on that side of the bus could be guilty of laughing and pointing (I know I was) and Rudy could hardly talk for laughing. The drunk boy tried to yell something else, but Rudy turned the volume up on his microphone and said “you keep forgetting … I HAVE A MICROPHONE and YOU DON’T!” As our bus pulled away the sounds of guffaws were still ringing in the air, and drunk boy hid behind a low hedge because all the pedestrians were laughing at him, too.
We drove through SoHo, Broadway, Greenwich Village, Brooklyn, Manhattan … all the while amused by the entertaining comments and information that old Rudy had for us. We got some great pictures of the NYC skyline lit up at night (yes, even me. I now had a working camera and 800 speed film, so I’m pretty sure my pictures probably came out … fingers crossed!)
At one point we stopped in an upscale Manhattan neighborhood. Our seats were level with the 2nd floor windows of the buildings around us. Linda and I glanced at the building to the right and saw a group of good looking guys having a get-together. One of the guys was standing up, getting ready to drink from a bottle of beer. He almost choked on it when he looked out of his window and saw probably forty people outside staring at him interestedly. To give him credit, he held up the beer and toasted us, while all of his friends got up and ran to the window, beckoning us inside with “join us!” motions. To be honest, they were probably trying to get LINDA to come in because she’s a hot mama! Heee-heeee!
The whole bus cracked up and I took a picture just to amuse them, because they were such good sports. Who says New Yorkers are stuffy?
We crossed the Manhattan Bridge on the way out and the Brooklyn Bridge on the way back. Heading into the wind got a little nippy, so we were glad to see the end of our journey, although it was definitely a highlight of our trip! And, just to show what nice people they were, the good men of the Grayline Bus company dropped us off at Penn Station so we didn’t have to ride with another scary taxi driver!
We trudged wearily into Penn Station in time to miss the 10:40 train, so we set our sights on the 11:00 train. Mom and Laurie went in search of ice cream while Linda and I propped against a pole, watching the signs to see what track our train would be on. Mom came back with yogurt in a fancy cone w/ chocolate and nuts, while Laurie had Haagen Das in a plain sugar cone. Believe it or not, food and drinks are allowed on the train! (That would explain the linoleum floor vs. our carpeted Metro in DC … no food is allowed on there!)
Lucky 19 came up so we joined the throngs of people streaming toward track 19 and the train to Lindenhurst.
We sat down wearied but happy. Our conductor for the return trip was a nice woman who cracked a few jokes (yes, at my expense … I was tired so I was giving her lots of ammunition) and then sashayed off. The trip back was fairly uneventful, except the power kept going out on the train. Suddenly all of the lights would flicker and go off, as would the A/C, but if they needed to do that to keep up the power to run the train, so be it. If my choice is to sit in the middle of the tracks, not moving, but with all the lights and air on, OR ride in the dark but get to our destination, well, I think it’s a no-brainer as to which I’d pick. The air conditioning, of course! ;p